Oven, Range & Cooktop Repair
An oven that won't heat right before a family dinner, or a burner that clicks but never lights, is more than an inconvenience. Appliance Monk repairs gas and electric ovens, ranges, cooktops and wall ovens in homes across Katy, Fulshear, Richmond, Sugar Land and greater Houston.
Smell gas? Don't try to light anything or flip switches. Leave the house and call 911 or your gas utility from outside. Gas leaks are an emergency for the gas company and first responders, not something to wait on an appliance repair for.
Oven problems we repair
We work on freestanding and slide-in ranges, wall ovens and cooktops from most major brands such as GE, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG and Bosch.
Gas oven won't heat
The most common culprit on a gas oven is a weak igniter. The igniter glows, but not hot enough to open the gas valve, so you get a faint glow and no flame. We measure the igniter's current draw rather than guessing. Other causes are a failed gas safety valve, a bad temperature sensor or a control problem.
Electric oven won't heat, or heats only on broil
Look at the bake element on the oven floor. A blister, break or burned spot means it has failed. If the elements look fine, we check the temperature sensor, the control board and the wiring. An oven that heats only on broil or only on bake often has one failed element.
Uneven baking or wrong temperature
A faulty oven temperature sensor, a convection fan that isn't turning, a worn door gasket or a door that doesn't close fully can all cause burnt bottoms and raw middles. Many ovens also allow a small temperature offset adjustment; we can check calibration with a proper thermometer.
Self-clean problems
Self-clean cycles run very hot, and that's when weak parts tend to fail: blown thermal fuses, door locks that won't release, or control boards that quit. If your oven died during or right after a self-clean, tell us when you call.
Range and cooktop problems
Gas burner won't light or keeps clicking
Burners that won't light are often caused by clogged burner ports or a misaligned burner cap after cleaning. Constant clicking usually means moisture from a boil-over has reached the spark switch or igniter, or a spark switch has failed. Let the cooktop dry out completely and make sure the caps sit flat; if the clicking continues, the switch or spark module needs attention.
Electric coil or glass cooktop element not working
On coil cooktops, a loose or burned receptacle and a failed element are common. On smooth-top glass cooktops, we check the element, the infinite switch that controls it, and the control board. A crack in the glass top means the cooktop should not be used until it's repaired.
Induction cooktops
Induction cooktops use electronics that are sensitive to heat and power surges. Error codes, a zone that won't recognize the pan, or a dead cooktop after a storm are all worth having diagnosed.
Safety tips for ranges and ovens
- Anti-tip bracket: every freestanding range should be secured with the anti-tip bracket that comes with it. Without it, a child climbing on an open oven door can tip the whole range. If you're not sure yours has one, ask us to check.
- Don't line the oven floor with foil unless your manual allows it. It can trap heat, damage the finish and affect baking.
- Clean spills on gas burners promptly and let them dry before relighting.
- After a storm or outage, if the oven clock or controls behave strangely, switch the breaker off for a minute and back on. If it's still wrong, call us before using it.
Repair or replace?
Igniters, elements, sensors, spark switches, infinite switches, door gaskets and thermal fuses are routine repairs and are usually well worth doing, even on an older range. Replacing a full range also means a new install, and possibly new gas or electrical connections. We'll give you a price after diagnosis and an honest opinion. Moving to a new range? See appliance installation.